The Amalfi Coast: (Positano)
Updated: Aug 28, 2018
Bella Italia! Italy is a wonderful country filled with stunning landscapes, beautiful people, and amazing food. I’ve always known that I wanted to go to Italy and spend time there and after going it totally made sense. After leaving Barcelona, I headed to the airport to catch my flight to Naples and the Amalfi Coast.
A little bit of backstory before I go into my guide for that city. When I decided I wanted to go to the Amalfi Coast, I was scouring the internet for information on how to navigate that area. The biggest issue was transportation and lodging. I am a very practical person and can prioritize ease of access over luxury. Because the Amalfi Coast is so far from Naples using public transportation, I decided it was a better idea to stay in the city center of Naples. Not my best idea. I will be completely honest, I wanted to appreciate Naples for what it was because I’m a grateful traveler, but Naples needs to do better. Check out this Instagram post for the short version of why Naples is not my friend.
Now, on the good stuff; my guide on enjoying the Amalfi Coast! If you are insisting on experiencing Naples as part of your trip to Southern Italy, by all means enjoy yourself. However, if you want to really enjoy your vacation, you are best staying in Sorrento or the area surrounding it.
What is the Amalfi Coast?
The Amalfi Coast is basically a large stretch of coastline along the coast of the Salerno Gulf which is next to the Tyrrheniean Sea. There are 13 little towns along this coast and each one of them is stunning. The most popular are Positano, Amalfi, and Ravello. These towns are busy cities so if you are expecting a turn club type of situation you need to head up to Rome. This area is definitely a place where you go to have a relaxing upscale vacation. There are several beautiful boutique shops, and restaurants on the (long and steep) walk down from the road to the actual beach.
How to get there?
If you are insisting on experiencing Naples as part of your trip to Southern Italy, by all means enjoy yourself. However, if you want to really enjoy your vacation, you are best staying in Sorrento or the area surrounding it. After arriving at naples airport, the best way to get to there get a taxi from the airport and go straight to the ferry port. (Make sure you check the schedule and plan ahead to make sure you get on before they stop running for the day.) People drive VERY differently there so it is most likely you will fear for your life in the taxi. You can purchase your ticket at the port. They will appreciate it if you have correct change. Once on the boat, you will be treated to an amazing view of (what body of water is that) and Mt Vesuvious. You will instinctively want to go up to the top to get a better view but do yourself a favor and pack a sweater or light jacket just in case; it gets very chilly up there. There is a very comfortable area on the main level that is enclosed. The best way to get around down there is by car, though parking is awful so if you didn’t rent one, you could taxi or continue taking the bus. However, once in Sorrento, I would suggest walking from the port up to the town of Sorrento. Its so beautiful and serene there even with the flocking tourists. Grab a bite to eat there or check out some of the shops before heading to the bus depot where you can catch the bus from Sorrento to all of the towns along the Amalfi Coast.
Where to stay?
Sorrento for the win. If you don’t mind spending a little bit more money, you could stay at one of the lovely Air BnB spots in Sorrento. Sorrento, is a quick ferry ride to Capri as well. If you think you want to see Mt Vesuvius as well, there are several options in between the two that are also close to a bus line to get you to Sorrento or Mt Vesuvius. If you want to stay in any of the towns along the coast, you will need to reserve EARLY and plan to spend a bit more as well. If you would rather save on lodging you could stay in Naples. There are several options, but just be diligent with your decision making because you could end up in a not great area of Naples. The town has a pretty high crime rate. The closer you stay to the water, the better.
Where to Eat?
Ok so I will be super transparent. I only ate at a small café in Positano when I went and I forgot the name of it. BUT I do remember that it is one of the cafes you find when walking down to the beach from the main road. There are a few resturants/ cafes on your walk down as well as a few on the beach. MOST of the fine dining in that area will run a little on the pricey side so prepare for that.
The Amalfi Coast should definitely be on your short list when it comes to destinations. It is really magical and everywhere you turn, there is a stunning view. My biggest piece of advice would be to make that your destination if you only have a week. Don’t try to add a lot to your itinerary. If you don’t drive, getting around in that area will take some time and lodging can be expensive if you don’t book early and IF you drive, parking is also tough. Don’t let that discourage you however, there are several awesome towns on the coast and you could also take a ferry over to Capri and Ischia.
If you are heading there soon and have any specific questions, shoot me an email or DM me on Instagram!